New York University (Florence 2009)

“The role of tailoring in the XXI century” by Irma Schwegler

The main question we would like to reply today is: “At the beginning of third millennium there is a role for the top class made to measure tailoring?”

I would reply to this question analysing the main features of fashion and tailoring in the history stressing the main steps that from the ancient world leads to the modern age. In the history of the past and in the framework of the near future I found the reasons of my activity where I try to synthesize the technical tools of tailoring with new concepts linked to the problem globalisation put to the creativity and environment.

The logic sequence of my speech will be the following:
– The clothing materials in the history: environment and needs
– The fibres
– The textile
– The dying
– Making the clothes: Weavers and Tailors
– Spinning and weaving
– Sewing
– Pattern making
– Fashion distinguish ourselves: a way to dream from the king to the punk
– From the wrapped costumes to the built clothing
– A new approach: my experience
– The natural textile
– The tailoring techniques
– Mixing the history suggestion with the contemporary needs
– An exigency of craft creativity for unique products

Lizzie Haldane 1st Lecture Review: Irma Schwegler  (October 1st, 2009)

Irma Schwegler described the numerous components of clothing: practical purpose, social representative, aesthetic scope, and functional, and their connection to materials, the process of making clothing, and distinction in design. All facets of clothing, from the beginning process in making to end process of wearing make the job of a tailor just as valuable now as in the traditional past. Not dramatically different than in history, tailors continuously search for new materials as they become scarce, poorer quality, or desire a change. Schwegler found a nice niche for herself by producing traditional made to measure clothing from natural fibers. The continued search for natural fibers and development of awareness for the environmental, sustainable, and healthful benefits of them makes Schwegler’s role as a tailor in the 21st century unique from the past, but still tremendously tied to tradition.
Schwegler respects and knows a lot about the historical influence of traditional tailoring – that tremendously influences her ability to use technology in a way that maintains the integrity of her art as a traditional tailor. Of course there are two different ways to look at the influence of technology on tailoring – first, there is the integration of machines in the production process (sewing machines, hand looms, computers, electric scissors, etc.) and then, there is the search for natural fibers and their use in spinning, weaving, and sewing.
There certainly is a difference between the past and future of tailoring, but Irma Schwegler was able to find common ground – uniting the two fields by essentially creating another. She uses the same techniques and processes, but introduced the assistance of technology. Technology does not necessarily make production less unique, mass produced, or more accurate, it simply makes the process a little bit more timely.
The main difference between Schwegler’s exclusive items and mass production is the desire and intention of  production. Schwegler has made a career out of tailoring, devoting her education and life to making clothes – she chooses and enjoys the tedious work of tailoring which makes her complete works a labor of love. With her blood, sweat, and tears, the final product is a piece of her, and has more sentiment than a factory mass produced piece. Those working in mass production generally do the work because they need the money, not necessary because they love the field; additionally, once a product is complete, they start another one, losing any emotional tie to the completed product. Therefore, I find that not only do Schwegler’s customers pay high prices for high quality made to measure outfits, they also pay for the labor and care of the final product.
Made to measure tailoring defines Schwegler’s exclusive items; from measurements, design, grading, pattern, tools, and dress, Schwegler produces unique, one a kind pieces that would not be replicable in quality by mass production standards. Each piece is made from start to finish by her hands, in her studio, with only her influence and decision making – this process drastically differs from the majority of factories in China, for example, that have an assembly line process and use cheap materials at a low price.
Schwegler uses top of the line, natural fibers that allow her to make each piece in her store adjustable to each consumer – making the clothes pret-a-porte and more suitable for the body. With the rise of mass production of material goods, personality became the next uniformed good to be processed. Therefore, Schwegler’s business keeps a strong hold on traditional clothing but also creates a distinction between consumers – those who wish to purchase mass produced goods from name brand companies simply for the status symbol differ from those who wear clothes made specifically for them, demonstrating a more independent view of the self.
Not only does Schwegler hold strong to the tradition of tailoring, she also looks to sustainable and environmental fibers to influence the future of fashion. As resources deplete and desire for more natural products come to the forefront, Schwegler understands the tremendous importance that natural fibers have on production. Not only are natural fibers more efficient and easy to find, they are more healthily abundant.
As the scare of global warming persists and the desire for a more natural lifestyle comes to the forefront, the market for natural fibers will increase tremendously, especially since they are readily available to everyone globally. By continuing the use of synthetics, we are reducing the possibility of future production, since synthetics are harmful to the environment and have lower quality and lifetime. Additionally, we impact the economic success of millions of people who rely on the production of natural fibers.
Natural fibers are biodegradable, create jobs for harvesters and refiners, recirculate money around the global via international exchange, reduce waste, and are significantly more healthful to the human body.
Plants and animals contribute to the production of natural fibers – by refining the organic substances through the process of spinning, we get natural materials, such as cotton, flax, hemp, sisal, wool, and silk. The molecular structure of natural fibers is more efficient in regulating body temperature, provides increase protection, and the breathability prevents skin and respiratory irritation. International Year of Natural Fibres  explains natural fibers as  the healthy, responsible, sustainable, high-tech, and fashionable way of clothing design in the future.